Everyday Is Halloween....

In Japan [registration required, I think].

"France is not the fashion leader anymore," says Loic Bizel, a self-styled style-industry tour guide and market pulse-taker from Lyons. "There are no trendsetters in France, except maybe big names like Dior."

The French, he said, "are very poor in terms of fashion, in terms of creativity, compared to Japan."

Harajuku is perhaps the one place on earth where every day is like Halloween and "outrageous" is the highest form of praise. Day-Glo pink or green hair doesn't turn heads, nor do Shirley Temple flouncy petticoats or pandalike, black-and-white complexions or any mad assortment of tchotchkes, accessories and clothing.

Japan is now the kingdom of cool.